We live in a big drafty home and depend significantly on our wood stove for heat. It’s a lot of work, but saves us a fortune.
We acquire all of our wood from downed trees in the vicinity and my husband is also contacted on a intermittent basis to take trees down for people.
He then loads it, splits it, and stacks it.
The stove has to be fed constantly in the winter but will heat 2000 sq. feet. We keep a few fans going to circulate the heat better.
You can burn just about anything but different wood produces different results. The
woodheat.org website has a list of wood types in the order of BTUs they produce. Hardwoods produce the greatest amount of BTU while softwoods produce the least. Any dry hardwood will work well, but for keeping your chimney tidy stay away from pine or other pine type trees that have a heavy pitch/sap content. Oak has been a desired wood because it is a very dense hot burning wood, that cuts and splits easily. With time you will learn to get a good hot fire burning and then adjust your damper to control the air to give a sweltering yet long burning fire.
Here’s some tips on installing a woodstove:
Different stoves have different requirements, but all woodstoves need to have a non-combustible base underneath. This base should extend a minimum of 8 inches around all sides of the stove and 18 inches in front of any loading doors. In addition, the stove board should extend underneath and horizontal run of the stovepipe connection to the chimney
There are a number of approved materials for underneath a woodstove. Some of them are:
Concrete slab, bare or with any tile or brick installed above it,
Pre-Fab UL Approved Stove Boards and Mats
Ceramic Tile, Marble or Slate installed on top of UL Listed cement under layment board (dura-rock and wonderboard are two brand names.)
Determine if the installation is a through-the-roof or through-the-wall installation. Do you have a second story, or a cathedral ceiling? A through the wall installation requires additional components (Wall Thimble, Tee w/Cap, Tee Support, and Wall Straps). Install the chimney pipe in the interior of the structure whenever possible. A cold exterior chimney will produce less draft and will generate more creosote. If at all possible, avoid offsets that restrict the natural draft. A straight vertical installation is more efficient. If an offset is required to avoid rafters or other obstructions, please note that elbows greater than 30 degrees are not allowed in the United States, and a maximum of two offsets in a single installation are permitted. At least one elbow strap is required for each offset.
Class A Chimney Pipe, also called All-Fuel pipe, is designed to vent appliances fueled by wood, oil, and coal, though some brands are also approved for use with gas-fueled devices. Chimney systems created with Class A pipe are almost always UL Listed, allowing them to be compatible with a greater variety of fireplaces, wood stoves, inserts, and furnaces than other kinds of vent pipe.
Stove pipe is available in a variety of thicknesses, ranging from single-wall to triple-wall, with the triple-wall providing the best insulation and smallest clearance to combustibles. Most wood stoves and freestanding fireplaces can be connected to a chimney with any thickness of stove pipe, but it is strongly recommended that you use stove pipe and chimney pipe produced by the same manufacturer.
I started humming this song while writing this post and had to learn about it! Tompall Glaser sang it:
“Put Another Log on the Fire (The Male Chauvinist National Anthem)”, which peaked at #21 on the
Billboard Hot Country Singles (now Hot Country songs) charts in 1975 and appeared on the album Wanted! The Outlaws. The Glaser Bros. also were back-up singers for Marty Robbins in the 1950s.